I solder the shorter lead first, so that the longer lead can be used to move the LED if you need to adjust the LED position later. Solder ONE lead of each LED… Recording temperature is one of the significant applications in various businesses. They may also feel embarrassed if only one parent shows up with them at a gathering, and people inquire why. Don't be impatient, you've just spent lots of money on these nice panels, you don't want to feel rushed in this construction stage when you're trying to be ultra careful not to make a big mess and connect the PCB and panels together slowly. If you want to be professional about it, put all the screws in the spacers first, without screwing them in fully, then tighten them starting with the middle ones and moving out to the edges. Put screws in all the threaded spacers and screw it together tight! PCB (with the spacers still attached) using screws to hold it together.

Once they are together, you can use the nuts on the screws to hold it together. This joint doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to hold it in place, you can do a proper joint later. If any are not correct, you can heat up the joint and position the LED with pliers holding the lead, or a finger adjusting the unsoldered lead. Turn it PCB side up, trim the leads to 1mm above PCB, and solder the second lead of each LED, and also do a proper solder joint on the first lead (if it wasn't done properly the first time). Turn it panel side up, check all the LEDs are at the right height. Most of these would have fallen into the panel holes already, you should check them all… You will need to remove and check the panels for the heating and air conditioning units and all wall vents. Insert diodes. CHECK ORIENTATION! It is ironic, but a good orientation in geography to avoid trouble. Now is a good time to fix up the overlap between the SID "R" LED hole and the PT-10 case mount. Trim the case mount with a knife so the hole is not overlapped at all.

If the LED leads are really long, you can trim all the LED leads to 5mm above PCB, to make soldering easier. You must solder these on the top first then trim leads as close as possible. Then after you have a frontpanel with screws and threaded spacers attached with JB-Weld, it is best to solder the tactile switches FIRST and then use these (along with the PCB and panel attached) to aligning the LEDs in the panel holes so they stick out from the panel the same amount as the shafts of the tactile switches. Please wait until someone has tried this method before gluing to the panel. If I have not explained myself enough, then please wait for a more detailed explanation in the construction guide. Put the panel on top of the PCB, guiding it onto the PCB gently with the screws as a guide. You put panel and PCB together and use a pencil through the holes where the screws go. I cannot imagine having a 4-minute countdown on my head trying to do 23 blobs on the panel AND THEN put the panel and PCB together.

Put the LEDs in the panel holes. Put the PCB in the PT-10 case top where the panel would normally go, so the LEDs can be put in without bending the leads. However, this might affect your ability to adjust LED positions later if some LEDs were not correctly aligned in the panel holes. The aim here is to make the LEDs poke out the same distance above the panel as the switch shafts. Solder diodes. The diode to the left of the switch labelled "SHIFT" on the panel is too close and can prevent proper positioning of the switch. This is only possible if the switch shafts are all the same height (which will happen if you've screwed the PCB and panel together with screws in all the threaded spacers). I use the front panel that comes with the PT-10 case, this is very flat, and you can rotate it to see the gap around the edge, i.e. how high the switch shafts are holding the frontpanel above the surface. JB-Weld (for gluing threaded spacers to the frontpanel). PCB when gluing them to the frontpanel. 20 hours of just waiting (yes you need to do two separate gluing stages) might be torture but it is worth it in the end.

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